Ultimate Guide to the Palio di Siena
By Gillian Boyd Published 22 April 2026
This guide gives practical tips on seeing the unique Palio di Siena horse race, Trials and Procession for free with the schedule and history included.
What is the Palio?
The Palio di Siena is a four-day festival culminating in one of the oldest and most famous horse races in the world dating back to the 12th century. Siena is proud of this centuries old race and has preserved its traditions. It is a local festival for local people.
Once we realised, we would be in Tuscany (for a wedding) we immediately changed our plans so we could attend this unusual experience. Never one to miss an adventure, we were thrilled to be a part of it.
17 Contrade colours for Palio di Siena horse race
The 17 Contrade
The horse race is between the different Contrades (districts) of Siena. Fierce loyalties and rivalries have developed over hundreds of years and although there are 17 Contrades (districts) in Siena only 10 may participate in the race so taking part is an honour. Victory brings immense pride to the Contrade.
Competition is so great that fighting may ensue, but bad behaviour can result in the Contrade being banned for one or more races. When we attended 2 of the Contrade had been banned from competing. The 7 Contrade that did not participate in the same race in the previous year are automatically included this year, with the remaining 3 slots being settled by a draw.
8 Ways the Palio is Different to Other Horse Races
- The race is run bareback
- The jockeys wear traditional clothing of loose long-sleeved jacket and corduroy trousers in their Contrade colours in contrast to the skin tight race clothes of modern day
- The Palio can be won by a riderless horse provided the decorative headgear (coccarda) is in place. This is unique as riderless horses are disqualified in all other races
- The race commences when the 10th horse enters the starting area
- They race around the Piazza del Campo in the centre of Siena
- The race horses are blessed at its Contrade church at 3pm on the day of the race and prayers are said for safety and success. It’s a dangerous race so they are needed
- The race is preceded by a 2 hour long Historical Procession of 600 people and horses
- The Drappellone, a hand painted silk banner is the prize for winning
Istrice Contrade dinner in Siena before the Palio di Siena
Contrade Dinners
The preparation and festivities last for weeks. We watched the flags and decorative lighting being erected around the town marking the territories of the Contrade. The older men directed where to fix the lights and sent the youngest men up the ladders.
Special Contrade dinners are held and tourists can purchase tickets to be a part of it. For the whole time we were in Siena, the Palio di Siena was the main topic of conversation for everyone, tourists and locals alike. We got utterly caught up in the atmosphere and loved it.
Watch the Trials
The horses and jockeys are matched by drawing lots. There are 6 Trials where the jockeys get to test out the horses they have been drawn on the actual track.
They jockey for position at the beginning of the race. It can be frustrating, as there will be many false starts and the horses may run only one or two laps. Some jockeys save their horses and don’t really race them hard at the Trials.
Smaller Crowds Than the Palio
It is free to come and watch the Trials so there is a noisy crowd, but much less so than on the day of the race. If you are uncomfortable with big crowds or have children with you, then this is the time to come. But expect a lot of shouting as the audience is incredibly loyal to their Contrade. You will get a sample of what the Palio is like but it’s much less intense.
No Young Children at Palio
At the Palio race, children under the age of 10 are not permitted to attend. The centre of the Piazza is standing only, so you need to be of a certain size to hold your own position in such a big crowd and tensions may run high.
Historical Procession through the streets and Piazza di Campo at Palio di Siena
Historical Procession
The race horses are paraded as part of the 2-hour long Historical Procession with its numerous drummers, historical music and ceremonial flag waving. Each Contrade has a parade horse as well as the race horse.
Blessings
At 3pm each of the Contrade take their Palio race horse to their local church for prayers and blessings. All the Contrade walk through the streets from their district, singing and waving flags to gather for the start of the Historical Procession at the Duomo at 4pm. Then the full Historical Procession begins and finally ends in the Piazza del Campo.
Contrade Inno
Each Contrade has its own Inno, an official anthem of historic songs which they all sing. It often alternates solo and two-voice choir as they walk in procession through the streets of Siena to the Piazza del Campo.
It is beautiful to hear, as it is a melodic mix of teenage boys and women singing. The men are in the Historical Procession in their historical attire. The lyrics are very poetic singing about ‘in your banners beat a thousand hearts, and your passion spreads through every street.’ I looked up an English translation afterwards. Not at all like the crude and rude chants at football matches. I wanted to join in but my Italian wasn’t up to it, let alone my voice.
Contrade Scarf
We followed Istrice Contrade all the way to the Duomo, then dashed off to get a good spot in the Piazza del Campo at 4:10pm. We chose Istrice Contrade because we had passed through this Contrade many times and felt an affinity to it. I even bought the scarf and was proud to join the crowd as we followed with the locals.
Family Heirloom
Although we all wore the same design of scarf, mine was made of polyester and looked new. While some women wore a silk scarf, yellowing with age, a family heirloom passed down through the generations. A symbol to treasure.
Waiting for the Historic Procession on the steps of Duomo in Siena
Where to Watch the Historic Procession
The Historic Procession lasts 2 hours and is a grand affair worth seeing, with horses and over 600 people in medieval costume. Starting at 4pm from the Duomo, the Cathedral in the centre of Siena, it parades around the streets of Siena ending in the Piazza del Campo, where the Palio race takes place. You have 3 choices of where to watch the Historic Procession:
- On the steps of the Duomo ready for the 4pm start. This makes a natural arena and has the advantage of being able to sit in the shade. But if you want to watch the Palio as well, the timing is tight to get around to Dupré Street (the final entrance to close) to enter Piazza del Campo. Also consider that you will end up watching the Palio in the middle of the Piazza where the view is not as good
- From any of the streets on route. The streets are narrow and it is very crowded so photographs will have a lot of people in the background
- From the Piazza del Campo as the Historic Procession walks the track. The procession will enter from Casato di Sotto entrance and end at Via di Salicotto. This means the parade does not pass along a small section of Il Campo, directly in front of the Palazzo Pubblico.
We went early (4:10PM) to the Piazza del Campo and watched the Historical Procession as it paraded around the track.
Drappellone drawn by white oxen at Historical Parade at Palio di Siena
Drappellone
The prize for the Palio di Siena is a hand painted silk banner called the Drappellone. It is carried high through the streets of Siena on the Historical Procession on a large wooden cart drawn by white Chianina oxen called the Carroccio, for everyone to see.
Solemn Moment
Accompanied by a large medieval style cross and a priest and it is a solemn moment within the colourful and noisy procession. In the Middle Ages, such carts were used in Siena as mobile altars and rallying points.
Heat
Each Contrade also brings with it men in full chainmail and body armour despite the 35 degree heat and ceremonial flag throwers to create wonderful pageantry. I was boiling in shorts and t-shirt and the heavily dressed participants were being chilled with ice packs at their necks.
Waiting for number 10 to start the race at Palio di Sienna horse race
Horses at start line of crowded Palio di Siena
Only 90 Second Race
The race itself is short at only 3 laps and lasts about 90 seconds, but the build up in tension over the previous 3 days and the start of the race, is immense.
Silence
On the Palio di Siena race day, when the Municipal Police Officer arrives holding the white envelope up high, the crowd standing in Piazza del Campo, surrounded by tall historic buildings, hushes. The draw for the positions is read out one by one and the 50,000 crowd is completely silent. The tension is palpable.
Number 10 Starts the Race
The race has so many levels and is as famous for the bribery as the race itself. Deals take place between the jockeys and the Contrades. If a Contrade believes they have drawn a weaker horse, they will place their efforts on preventing a rival from winning, rather than ensuring they do. We saw jockeys trying to push each other off the horses at the race.
Bribery and Politics
The jockey who has drawn the worst place, number 10, is in a very powerful position as he determines the timing of the start of the race by running past the rope. The other Contrades seek to bribe him to break through the start line when their horse is best positioned. The Palio jockeys must also be skilled in negotiation and politics.
Stress
When we watched, there was 20 minutes of waiting and 2 false starts. Other years it has take an hour to start. Can you imagine how the horses and jockeys feel in that state of readiness for so long in such a cauldron?
The Palio race horses must be of mixed breed and be calm to cope with the noises and stresses of the whole Palio festival.
Mortar Burst
Timings on the day are announced by the bursting of a mortar, which was so loud it made me jump every time, never mind the horses who were steadfast. With everyone standing next to each other and surrounded by the tall buildings, the sound, heat and emotion is contained. It’s intense.
Mattresses for protection in Palio di Siena horse race
Mattress Wall
A wall of high absorption mattresses has been erected at the curve at St Martin for the safety of the jockeys, horses and emergency personnel since 1999.
At this point in the race, they are running downhill and then have to turn right. The tufo (special clay) underfoot can be slippery and it is common for the jockeys to fall off.
Race Bare Back
Remember, there are no saddles on the horses. Consequently, the jockeys that have won multiple times command a premium from the Contrades, who pay handsomely for their services.
We stood opposite the mattresses and saw 3 jockeys crash and fall. Fortunately, all 3 were able to get up quickly and run to safety but we did see some blood on the track as we were leaving.
When is the Palio?
The Palio di Sienna is run on 2 fixed dates each year but can be postponed if it rains, as it did when we went in July 2025.
The race on 2 July is in honour of Our Lady of Provenzano and the race on 16 August is in honour of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.
What if it Rains?
It is very disappointing but the race can be postponed until the next day. As the track is made of clay (tufo), it does not absorb much water before it becomes slippery and dangerous.
The mayor announces the decision by raising a flag in one of the triforiums of the Municipal Palace. If the bad weather continues it may be postponed beyond the next day as happened in July 2024.
On 2 July 2025, 2 July 2024 and 16 August 2024 the Palio was postponed.
16 August 2025 the Palio ran as scheduled.
How Often is the Palio postponed?
Out of a possible 10 races between 2015 and 2025, the Palio has been postponed 5 times due to rain/storm and cancelled 4 times in 2020 – 2021 due to the pandemic.
In the previous decade from 2005 – 2014 there were no postponements.
We were able to change our plans and see the Palio the following day, but friends had a morning flight and missed it. They were gutted.
Timetable of the Trials
July Palio
The morning trials are at 9:00am on 30 June, 1 July, 2 July
The afternoon trials are at 7:45pm on 29 June, 30 June, 1 July
August Palio
The morning trials are at 9:00am on 14 August, 15 August, 16 August
The afternoon trials are at 7:15pm on 13 August, 14 August, 15 August
A mortar blast announces the pre-warning and the track is cleared about 30 mins before the trial
Timings on the Day of the Palio di Siena
July Palio
3:00pm and 4:00pm pre-warning
4:40pm start of clearing the track
5:20pm entrance of the Historical Procession into Piazza del Campo
4:30 – 6:30 access to the piazza is only permitted from Dupré Street (near the Palazzo Pubblico) up to maximum capacity. The other entrances are closed in rotation
7:30pm Race horses enter the square from the Cortile del Podestá (the tower of the Palazzo Pubblico)
August Palio
2:50pm and 3:20pm pre-warning
4:10pm start of clearing the track
4:50pm entrance of the Historical Procession into Piazza del Campo
4:00 – 6:00 access to the piazza is only permitted from Dupré Street (near the Palazzo Pubblico) up to maximum capacity. The other entrances are closed in rotation
7:00pm Race horses enter the square from the Cortile del Podestá (the tower of the Palazzo Pubblico)
Crowd in Piazza del Campo at Palio di Siena
Can I See the Palio for Free?
Yes. You can watch the Palio di Siena for free in the centre of the Piazza del Campo.
This will involve standing on a sloped paved surface in the centre of the piazza with about 45 – 50,000 people. Just like at a music festival, if you want to get the best positions, you need to get there early and wait. With that many people standing and cheering on their horse in a confined piazza, surrounded by tall buildings, the sound can be deafening and the emotion very raw.
Arrive Early
We arrived at 4:10pm and got ‘second row’ in a prime spot opposite the mattresses. Locals recommended arriving at 4:30pm and there was plenty of space then.
It was 35C as Europe was experiencing a heatwave when we went, so I could only cope because it was cloudy. Normally this part of the piazza is in full sun at that time of the afternoon. The centre of the Piazza is dipped so it’s harder to see.
Shade
The upper half of the piazza is in shade (near the start and finish line at Costarella dei Barberi). We went there for the 3rd trial and we arrived nearly 2 hours early. I thought I had a good ‘first row’ position, but then the Press arrived and entered the box so I couldn’t see quite as well.
Collecting drinking water from tap in Piazza del Campo at Palio di Siena
Can I Bring Water?
Metal bottles and drinks are not permitted. But you can bring in a plastic water bottle without its lid and fill it from the free drinking water fountain in the piazza. The public drinking fountains in this region are fed with good clean spring water and are safe to drink. In some towns they look like a vending machine. There are popcorn vendors in Piazza del Campo who also sell water.
Security
Security for the Palio is tight and my small handbag was searched twice before I went in. They also count the people and close the gates when capacity is reached.
Are There Toilets?
There is no access to toilets in Piazza del Campo during the Palio.
Can I Buy a Ticket for the Palio di Siena?
Tickets cost around €300 – €600 each for the balconies, stands and privately owned windows.
For information go to Visit Siena and to purchase tickets from private owners, email palchi.paliodiseiena@gmail.com (Source: Tourist office, Siena)
Jockey falling at Palio di Sienna
Is It Worth Buying a Ticket?
Buying a ticket is a matter of personal choice. For me, it’s like a music concert. We always get the standing tickets so we can be in the midst of the crowd to feel the full atmosphere, try and get close to the stage. But it would have been more comfortable with a better view from a balcony. However, we did get a prime spot opposite the mattresses and I’m not sure which balcony we would have got.
Top Tips for the Palio di Siena
- Book accommodation well in advance to have choice
- Book a table for dinner afterwards as the restaurants get very busy
- Try to keep the next afternoon and evening flexible in case the Palio is postponed
- Bring a bottle of water without its lid to the Palio. It can be refilled at the fountain
- Remember there is no access to toilets
- The upper half of the Piazza is in shade
- Watching a trial will give you an idea of what the Palio is like if you are unable to attend race day
Winner of Palio di Siena swamped by crowd
What Surprised Me About the Palio?
Intense Emotion
We wanted to experience as much as we could, so we embraced the whole festival. The experience was intense and exciting, a rollercoaster of emotions and we were wrapped up in the whole wonderful spectacle.
Graham grabbed my hand after the race so we couldn’t lose each other as we left the piazza. The crowd swamped the winning jockey and we followed the majority of the crowd leaving.
There were some angry remarks and reposts being shouted around us, so when we turned a corner I took off my scarf and slipped it into my bag.
Con Permisso
At one point we stood aside to let a group of men pass. They were rippling with tension; all dressed in the same colour and were led by a row of men in suits. The leader called out ‘Con permesso’ (with permission). I assume they were passing through a rival’s territory on their way home and didn’t want any trouble. The stakes are high.
An unsuccessful outcome can result in a loss of pride and a lot of money.
Later, locals told me fights can erupt over the following days and jockeys can be hit for failing to deliver. After the men passed the atmosphere quickly changed and it was more light hearted. What I perceived as fun was more serious for others.
Final Thoughts
I found the Palio Di Sienna to be an amazing and emotional festival to experience first-hand. The honour of traditions in the pageantry and respect to the Church involved so much work, time and money by so many people it was impressive. It shows how strong the community is in Siena.
It seemed so crazy to ride the track bareback, with the jockeys pushing each other. While the bribery and deals were intriguing, we would never get to the bottom of it. The spectacle consumed us for days and I don’t think I will ever experience anything else quite like it. And the next day… I was so tired I needed a big rest.
Would I recommend it? Absolutely! It was a fascinating local festival for local people and I was so pleased to be able to experience this centuries old tradition and culture.