Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs - See the White Whale
By Gillian Boyd Published 12 August 2026
Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs, Tuscany – see the White Whale limestone formation, bathe in mineral rich water and park – all for free – we tell you how.
Getting There
Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs are about 140km from Florence, or 70km from Siena in Tuscany, Italy.
Although there are some buses from Siena to Bagni San Filippo, it is not straight forward to get there by public transport. We hired a car for the second week of our trip to Tuscany driving the scenic Chianti SR222 (which is much prettier than the faster toll road) and visited small hill top towns.
We then based ourselves in Siena and Montepulciano for sightseeing and wine tasting. You can see our full 2 week itinerary in Tuscany here.
It was only a 30 minute drive through beautiful countryside to reach the hot springs, when we stayed in Montepulciano.
The white whale limestone formation at Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs, Tuscany
Natural Thermal Pools
The main formation at Bagni San Filippo is Balena Bianca, the White Whale, only a few minutes’ walk from the entrance through a shady forest. The natural pools are formed from limestone and the mineral rich water of the Fosso Bianco stream.
In my humble opinion, the white whale looked like snow and icicles and that messed with my mind, because it was hot! Isn’t it great to keep finding things that surprise you?
The natural thermal pools also reminded me of Hierve el Agua in Mexico, 70km east of Oxacaca City.
Graham enjoying the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
Paid Parking
We parked down the hill (one direction road) just before the entrance and paid for 2 hours parking from a pay and display machine. 2 hours was sufficient for us to explore the hot springs. If we had brought a picnic we might have stayed longer as there were a couple of wooden picnic benches.
We arrived at 11.30 am in early July and there were a couple of parking spaces left close to the entrance.
Free Parking
However, there was free parking on the way out of town. (You see how you learn from our mistakes.) It was slightly further away than the paid parking but still very doable.
In most of Italy, white lines mean free parking, and blue lines mean paid parking. There should also be a sign at the start of the parking area stating the terms.
Free Entrance
Entrance to Bagni San Filippo is free. There are no toilets or facilities at the hot springs but there are a couple of restaurants in the nearby town.
Avoid Soap and Creams
As these are natural springs and there are no showers, it is recommended that you avoid wearing creams, soap, or sunscreen as they will contaminate the water.
There is shade under the trees, but the pools are in full sunlight so I kept my hat on and didn’t stay very long in the pools because my skin burns easily.
Man showering under waterfall at Bagni San Filippo Thermal Baths
Natural Shower
Most people used the waterfalls with the least minerals, to rinse off when they were ready to leave.
Hot Water
At the top of Bagni San Filippo, where the white whale is, the waterfall was about 50C and the pool just below about 40C. Graham braved it and climbed inside to a little cavern and pool. This is where the water is richest with the minerals. He likes it hot but even he only managed a few minutes there.
People bathing in milky pools of Bagni San Filippo, Tuscany
Lower Pools are Cooler
Having heard his comments on the high temperature of the water at the top, I didn’t even attempt to enter that pool. I’m a sensitive soul so kept myself to the lower pools where fortunately, the water is cooler. It was warm and pleasant in the lower pools and I didn’t overheat.
Like most of the visitors, we left our flip flops at the base, next to the water and climbed barefoot over the rocks, which were fairly grippy.
People bathed in the milky pools and covered themselves in the pale mud which is good for the skin. We found it very relaxing to soak and wallow in the shallow pools.
Final Thoughts
Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs are naturally formed thermal baths and that is what makes them so good – the fact that they are natural. We liked the contrast between the rock formations and pools, with the surrounding forest. This is direct access to nature in all her glory.
It is simple. You leave your clothes on a pile of tree roots, the soundscape is birdsong, rustling leaves and the occasional gentle chatter of people. You laze around in the milky pools and unwind. What is there not to like?