San Cristóbal de Las Casas: Complete Travel Guide
By Gillian Boyd Published 16 August 2026
Colonial charm meets living Maya culture in San Cristóbal, Chiapas’ highland gem. Plus day trips to El Chiflón, Lagunas Montebello and the autonomous town of Chamula.
Pueblo Mágico
San Cristobal de Las Casas was recognised as ‘the most magical of all the Pueblos Mágicos’ due to its uniquely preserved heritage, by the federal government in 2010. Chiapas is also one of the poorest states in Mexico.
Cool Climate
At 2,200m high, this colonial city in the central highlands of Chiapas has a cool climate which is rare in Southern Mexico. There are forested mountains and misty mornings.
In February we had temperatures of 21C in the day dropping to a low of 5C at night.
Highest Concentration of Indigenous People
San Cristobal de Las Casas and the surrounding area is a vibrant cultural hub with local Tzotzil and Tzeltal Maya communities. It has the highest percentage of indigenous people with around 70% self-identifying compared to less than 20% in the rest of Mexico.
The artisanal markets are filled with complex Mayan textiles, locally mined amber jewellery, intricate pottery and wrought iron – so many beautiful things to buy.
Cathedral in San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico
Getting There
After a twelve-hour overnight ADO coach from Mazunte, on the Pacific coast, Graham said he hardly slept as the driver played Spanish opera loudly for hours. Our ear plugs are good but not invincible.
Normally you can sleep okay on the ADO coaches as they have semi reclining seats and air conditioning which are better than an economy air line seat.
Tuxtla Gutiérrez airport is about 80km and 1hr 30mins away by shuttle bus, but long distance ADO is the most common way to get there from Guatemala, Palenque (a must see in Chiapas) or Oaxaca. This is a highly mountainous region so collectivos are often the best way to get around as they can take much shorter routes over the mountains than ADO coaches. Your local hostel is best placed to advise on where, when and what collectivo to get.
Where We Stayed
We felt very welcomed, like we were guests in a family home during our 4 night stay at the quaint family run hostel aptly named, Posada del Abuelito (The Inn of the Little Grandfather). It had been recommended to us by our daughter.
Then On To
After San Cristobal de Las Casas, we travelled on to Palenque on a collectivo minibus to Ocosingo (2.5 hours), then new colectivo (2 hours) to Palenque. There is an ADO bus but it takes 9-10hrs. A few people on our day trip tour to Cascade El Chiflón and Montebello Lagunas got off the minivan at a town close to the Guatemalan border for an easy crossing the next morning, rather than returning the whole way to San Cristóbal de Las Casas.
Free Walking Tour
As we often do, to get our bearings in a new place, we joined a free walking tour which we had booked online in advance.
Meet at the Cathedral
In the Plaza de Paz, we stood beside the large wooden cross and stared at the grand yellow Cathedral while waiting for our tour guide. Ramón was tall and slender dressed in a khaki army jacket and cap, he looked like the Hollywood version of a Revolutionary. He explained he was not Mayan like the locals, but originally from Monterrey in northern Mexico, hence his height and lighter skin.
The tour began, as always, with a brief introduction of everyone’s name and where they were from before moving onto an overview of the different areas of the town including recommendations for restaurants, clubs, shopping areas etc.
For the next three hours we learnt about the history of the area and its people.
Mural quoting Mandela in San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico
Mural about water in Mexico, in San Cristobal de las Casas
Murals Everywhere
While looking at the stunning murals on homes and businesses, we saw a famous one quoting Nelson Mandela ‘The greatest glory is not in never falling, but in always rising.’ We learnt of past political battles of the Mexican Revolution and of the unique autonomous status of the nearby town of Chamula.
Water Purity
Today political battles persist over access to water and its purity throughout Mexico. We were told that locally, an internationally famous drink company, is blamed for the bacteria in the water. No one, not even locals, drink tap water here. Use bottled water to clean your teeth. A water engineer staying at our hostel, who wrote her thesis on the water system in Guadalajara, confirmed that poor water purity is a nation-wide problem in Mexico. At home we just take it for granted that our water is clean.
Pedestrian street in centre of San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico
Amber Market
We were instructed on how to spot fake amber in the Amber Market and to notice Mayan symbols everywhere in the decorations of the streets and buildings.
Our guide explained how to appreciate the skill and work of artisans in the textile market and to see the fusion of indigenous and Spanish customs in the Churches. Later, we returned and Graham bought a traditional shirt.
Santo Domingo De Guzman Church next to market in San Cristóbal de Las Casas
Santo Domingo de Guzman Church
This ornate church has a baroque facade covered in carvings. It feels very grand as if it should be in a wide open setting but instead the bustling market is pressed up next it.
Inside the church is full of gold detail.
Herb Cure
In the food market, we tried different samples and after mentioning Graham’s travellers’ tummy that had been bothering him for a few days, we bought a bunch of the recommended local herb.
Back at the hostel we showed the herb to the cook, Nancy and she knew immediately what it was for and what to do, as it is commonly used as a traditional drink for stomach upset in this area.
She led us into the garden and pointed to the plant. We laughed. She grabbed some more of the fresh herb (which was related to mint but was not mint) and blended the whole bunch.
Drink This
Nancy handed the pint glass of vivid green juice to Graham who dutifully drank it all.
Over the next couple of hours his stomach grumbled loudly like Vesuvius about to erupt but then it settled and became a sea of tranquility.
The pharmaceuticals we had brought from the UK hadn’t worked, the Mexican pharmacy pills we bought had failed, but the traditional herbs had worked straight away. This stuff was magic!
Woman on a Mission
When we got home, a couple of months later, I thought about how amazing this herb was and decided I wanted to grow it.
So I wrote to the hostel and asked for the recipe and details to ensure I was looking for the correct herb. It proved to be related to the marigold but even the prestigious Royal Horticultural Society said it was not available in the UK.
Seeds in the Mail
So I paid an exorbitant amount in shipping to get 20 seeds from a horticultural nursery in California (few places online).
I crossed my fingers they would grow but although they germinated, sadly my kitchen windowsill was not warm enough and the seedlings died. But should you be in Mexico and need it, here is the recipe that was given to me.
Traditional Drink Recipe for Upset Stomach
to make 1 glass:
80g chilchahua (tagetes nelsonii greenm)
medium clove of garlic
juice of a lime
a little boiled water
Mix ingredients together in a blender and drink the smoothie fresh.
Pox and chocolate tastings in San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico
Pox and Chocolate Tastings
Free walking tours often have opportunities to taste local delicacies and this was no exception. On our final stop we were able to taste pox (pronounced ‘posh’), a traditional Mayan alcoholic drink from Chiapas.
It is made from fermenting different types of corn (black, red, yellow, white), sugarcane and wheat. Served to us in a small shot glass, it tasted rather like vodka. We encountered its traditional use (and learnt a lot of other things too) when we visited Chamula the next day.
Church of San Juan Chamula, Mexico
Day Trip to Chamula
Only a 20 minute collectivo ride away is the autonomous indigenous town of Chamula, a fascinating place that deserves a post in its own right.
It was a very powerful and memorable experience. The highlight was a visit to San Juan Church where we witnessed, several times, the healing ceremony showing its unique blend of Catholicism and traditional religion including the use of chanting, Coca Cola, chicken sacrifice and pine needles.
View from steps of Iglesia de Guadalupe
Iglesia de Guadalupe
Profoundly affected by our visit to Chamula, we walked in silence through San Cristobal de Las Casas processing our thoughts until we came to the Iglesia de Guadalupe when our attention switched to the present.
Perched on a hill surrounded by trees, we climbed the 80 steps to the top and briefly walked through the colonial style Catholic Church.
It’s a nice church but to be honest, we really came for the view over the town with the mountain in the distance. We sat and listened to the birds and watched the light change in the late afternoon as the sun began to set. It was a lovely spot.
Band performing at Bar Revolucion
Nightlife in San Cristobal de las Casas
As far as we are concerned there are 2 places to visit in the evenings and if you don’t end up in them I’ll be shocked. We also felt safe walking home to our hostel in the near empty streets at midnight.
1. La Viña de Bacco
An Actual Wine Menu!
2. Bar Revolución
Dramatic Sumidero Canyon
Day Trip to Sumidero Canyon
We took a day trip to see Cañyon de Sumidera, which is on the state flag of Chiapas. We booked it the day before with a local tour agency operator in the town and it was a great trip.
Not only is it a place of great natural beauty but it is also of economic significance with Mexico’s largest hydroelectric power station and the Chicoasén Dam at the northern end of the canyon, providing enough electricity for three states.
4 Miradors
After about 1.5 hours drive on a twelve-seater mini-van (just like the colectivos) we stepped out into the bright sunshine for the first of four miradors (viewpoints) La Coyote, and grabbed our first glimpse of the dramatic canyon.
1km Drop
A kilometre below, down steep rugged sides, the grey green Grijalva River carved through the landscape glistening in the sunlight.
As I leaned over the already warm stone wall, my head went light and my stomach whooshed. Although the wall was carefully angled outwards to keep you safe, but provide the maximum viewpoint, it was too much for me and I immediately leant back to steady myself. Another thing I’m working on is my fear of heights.
Visitor Centre
At the Visitor Centre we saw a photographic exhibition of the Canyon in the different seasons and grabbed a bite at the small cafe.
Pro Tip – I recommend choosing a trip with stops at the miradors included, as it gave context to the scale of the canyon, to see it from the viewpoints above, before embarking on the boat ride.
Crocodile on a rock in Sumidero Canyon, Mexico
Floating Shop
A two-hour boat ride along the Rio Grijalva was included so we donned bright apple green life jackets to match the green boat and were taken straight to a floating shop where some guests bought ice-cold drinks and snacks.
Commentary in Spanish
The boat had a Spanish tour guide and was full of Mexican tourists except for us and a handsome young Canadian couple. I didn’t follow his commentary as it was too complicated for me. Other guides have simplified or slowed their language but he made no allowances.
Photo Ops
Nonetheless he did take us to some interesting sights and moved the boat round to ensure everyone got a photo.
Along the way, there were flocks of white heron-like birds. I was intrigued by black birds who half sank in the water so only their heads bobbed. They were cormorants or anhingas, whose non-waterproof feathers allow them to sink and dive for fish.
Crocodiles
As if this wasn’t exciting enough, the guide also found, not one, but two large crocodiles sunning themselves on a little ledge. We were thrilled.
Green Waterfall
We saw possibly our most unusual waterfall yet – a green waterfall. It had only the tiniest sprinkling of water but many mosses and ferns had grown in the crevices in the rocky cliff face creating a shaggy, verdant cascade of mixed foliage.
Mother and baby spider monkeys at Sumidero Canyon, Mexico
Spider Monkeys
Soon after, we saw three spider monkeys playing and swinging in the trees. One monkey had a baby hiding behind her. So cute.
Chiapa de Corzo
It was stiflingly hot when the boat slowed down for the approach to Chiapa de Corzo, yet another Pueblo Mágico, where we ate a very late lunch of tacos and guacamole serenaded by the owner’s son on an electric keyboard.
After a little wander round the square we boarded the mini-van for the journey back on the highway to San Cristobal de Casas.
Pool, waterfall and viewing platform of The Bridal Veil, El Chiflón
Day Trip to Cascade El Chiflón and Montebello Lagunas
We took this as a day trip from San Cristóbal de Las Casas and returned there late that night. On the way home, some on the trip left the minivan in a town close to the Guatemalan border for an easy crossing the next morning.
Our day started in the chilly darkness rising early, for collection at 7.30 am for the tour to Chiflón Casades and Montebello Lagunas.
Once again the tour was on a mini bus with twelve seats, just like a colectivo. After nearly three hours aboard, we reached Chiflón.
Spanish Guide
The guide spoke Spanish, making little allowance for my infantile comprehension of the language and translation apps didn’t work in this remote region. Fortunately, two young French men summarised the key points for us – we had two hours to enjoy the park and return to this spot.
What We Wanted to Do
- See the 5 waterfalls
- See Chiflón known as The Bridal Veil – the thunderous main water fall at 120m in height
- Go on a zip line. There were 3 zip lines which would bring you the whole way back down, but we chose to do the first zipline only, of 400m down the steepest section
- Swim in a chilly waterfall
- See the iguanas
Thankfully, we managed them all, though it felt a bit rushed. Another hour at the park would have made all the difference.
As you ascend, you pass five waterfalls, each growing in stature culminating in the largest and most beautiful, El Chiflón.
Despite being winter and the dry season, the waterfalls were very impressive and the water was a gorgeous aqua marine, which reminded me of the lakes in Canada.
Overwhelmed but delighted with the zip line at Chiflón Cascades
Zip Line
Graham took the zip wire first over the trees and the river. It was only 400m long but it was very fast. As usual he was all smiles.
Facing My Fears
Some ten years earlier I had been on a zip line in South Africa with my children. But I was the baby and they were reassuring me, as I was so scared that my knees keep physically knocking together for the whole experience, even though in my head I was enjoying it. My reaction was miles behind what my head was thinking.
This Time Will Be Better
I promised myself I would do another zip wire sometime and properly enjoy it right from the beginning. Now was my big chance! I made Graham go first so I could see it in operation.
Breathe
Fear pulsed through me as I slid and spun down the channel of the turquoise river, tall trees either side. My breathing quickened. I was in danger of hyperventilating. ‘I’m actually doing this’ I shouted, because you have to breathe normally when you shout.
Landing
When my feet reached the platform, the man grabbed my harness and supported me. I was so excited, I momentarily lost the power of my legs as a wave of emotion welled up in me and spilled out as tears.
With very little control of myself I was so spaced out with adrenaline that I didn’t even realise Graham was taking photos. I had done it! I had faced my fears and won! Then we waded into the cold water of the nearby waterfall and suddenly my brain was laser sharp. Woo hoo! What an experience!
Boats on the lake at Lagunas de Montebello
Lagunas de Montebello
After a 2 hour bus ride we reached Lagunas de Montebello, a group of lakes, surrounded by forest beside the Guatemalan border. We could have had our passport stamped at the office if we wanted, but we hadn’t brought them with us. We actually crossed into Guatemala, as the border was only marked by a line of buoys over one of the lagoons. There was a street of stalls selling souvenirs and crafts.
Ride on a Raft
We visited three lakes in total. At the first lake as we stepped off the bus, the vendors sounded like a flock of screeching parakeets as they advertised their wares.
The lake however was a tranquil place. Below, the lake was a deep blue, surrounded by densely forested steep slopes on all sides. In the centre, was the small island that we sailed to on a raft of six logs strapped together.
Although there was six passengers and the boatman for the hour long ride, we did most of the rowing, dragon boat style, as we sailed around the lake before landing on the island.
Hello, hello, hello
The island held many unusual flowers including orchids, a diving board which we didn’t use and an echo point. Experimentation proved that the higher pitch sounds echoed best.
Graham got an excellent ‘hello’ echo and following on from our discussion in La Viña Bacco he invited me to dig deep and release whatever primal sound was within me.
Shout and Be Free
‘You must let go. Let it out. Be free’ the woman had insisted the night before. She is right. So I did.
I opened my mouth and shouted as hard as I could but nothing came out. The moment passed.… and then it was time to row back to the lakeside and board the mini bus home.
When you have held on so tight, for so long, it is hard to let go at a moment’s notice. Maybe next time.
Final Thoughts
San Cristobal de Las Casas had so much of what I like in a place. It had nature in the mountains, forests, waterfalls, lakes and animals. There was art, murals, culture, textiles and jewellery. It had colonial, revolutionary and indigenous history and architecture. Friendly and interesting people to help me understand. Heck, it even had wine and dancing!
So when I hear people talk about finding the real Mexico, not Cancun, I think of our visit to San Cristobál de Las Casas and Chiapas state. Having seen the breadth and depth of the culture, it is not hard to see why it was named ‘the most magical of all the Pueblo Mágicos.’